Free Motorcycle Repair Manual tells as to establish progressive fork springs on motorcycle 1986 BMW R65. Under the recommendation of experts it is necessary to establish 11-1130 model springs. Progressive 11-1130 springs are also used in the 1988 to 1993 Harley-Davidson Sportster 883 
and 1200; the 1987-1994 FXR and the 1935-1950 FXLR.
Complexity Motorcycle Repair 1986 BMW R65 consists that at the given model the plug has a little bit other configuration, than other motorcycles BMW of the same year of manufacturing. The top fork nut is 41 mm across (see Fig.1.), and it's threaded on to a 17 mm Allen set screw. The monolever fork features a fork cap which is held in by a circlip rather than threaded into the tube. An advantage of this design is that it is no longer necessary to use a "torque relief bar" when removing the fork caps to prevent misalignment of the forks, but it does require a bit more effort to get to the springs.
Free Motorcycle Repair Manual recommends:
- Attentively study Motorcycle Repair Manual1986 BMW R65;
- Before the work beginning prepare necessary tools and materials.
A couple of days before surgery, apply your favorite penetrating oil to the fork cap nuts. These tend to be quite frozen to the fork caps and the longer they soak, the easier your job will be. Start by removing the gas tank and handlebars. The bars just need to be unbolted from the top triple and can just dangle out of the way. While you do not really have to remove the tank, you'll have more room to work and you'll avoid unsightly scratches. After prying off the plastic caps on the fork tops, you'll see the cap nuts threaded on the 17mm Allen screws. Now get out the torch and aluminium foil, shield any cables in the way, and get the cap nuts HOT. Hopefully you'll see penetrating oil bubbling out of the threads. Keep heating. After they've cooled, you may want to repeat with more penetrating oil. If you're changing the fork oil, go ahead and drain it now. Measure the volume of oil that drains out each side, and be sure to pump the fork a couple of times to expel most of the oil. Just a matter of inserting the Allen wrench or bolt/breaker bar setup and putting the box-end wrench over the cap nut. Then, applying clockwise torque to the cap and counter-clockwise torque to the box-end wrench, heave-ho! A helper would be handy here, each person cranking on one of the wrenches.
Further, you'll need to depress the fork caps an inch or so to get to the circlip that holds the cap in the fork tube. Jack the bike up under the engine to get the front wheel in the air.
A helper is again handy here, as is patience, small screwdrivers or an icepick, and various curse words. If you do not have a helper, a 2-jaw gear puller clamped to the top triple can be used to depress the fork cap while you fiddle with the circlip. Once the circlips are out the caps pull right out of the tubes. Finally it's simply a matter of pulling out the old springs. To be contined...
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and 1200; the 1987-1994 FXR and the 1935-1950 FXLR.Complexity Motorcycle Repair 1986 BMW R65 consists that at the given model the plug has a little bit other configuration, than other motorcycles BMW of the same year of manufacturing. The top fork nut is 41 mm across (see Fig.1.), and it's threaded on to a 17 mm Allen set screw. The monolever fork features a fork cap which is held in by a circlip rather than threaded into the tube. An advantage of this design is that it is no longer necessary to use a "torque relief bar" when removing the fork caps to prevent misalignment of the forks, but it does require a bit more effort to get to the springs.
Free Motorcycle Repair Manual recommends:
- Attentively study Motorcycle Repair Manual1986 BMW R65;
- Before the work beginning prepare necessary tools and materials.
A couple of days before surgery, apply your favorite penetrating oil to the fork cap nuts. These tend to be quite frozen to the fork caps and the longer they soak, the easier your job will be. Start by removing the gas tank and handlebars. The bars just need to be unbolted from the top triple and can just dangle out of the way. While you do not really have to remove the tank, you'll have more room to work and you'll avoid unsightly scratches. After prying off the plastic caps on the fork tops, you'll see the cap nuts threaded on the 17mm Allen screws. Now get out the torch and aluminium foil, shield any cables in the way, and get the cap nuts HOT. Hopefully you'll see penetrating oil bubbling out of the threads. Keep heating. After they've cooled, you may want to repeat with more penetrating oil. If you're changing the fork oil, go ahead and drain it now. Measure the volume of oil that drains out each side, and be sure to pump the fork a couple of times to expel most of the oil. Just a matter of inserting the Allen wrench or bolt/breaker bar setup and putting the box-end wrench over the cap nut. Then, applying clockwise torque to the cap and counter-clockwise torque to the box-end wrench, heave-ho! A helper would be handy here, each person cranking on one of the wrenches.
Further, you'll need to depress the fork caps an inch or so to get to the circlip that holds the cap in the fork tube. Jack the bike up under the engine to get the front wheel in the air.
A helper is again handy here, as is patience, small screwdrivers or an icepick, and various curse words. If you do not have a helper, a 2-jaw gear puller clamped to the top triple can be used to depress the fork cap while you fiddle with the circlip. Once the circlips are out the caps pull right out of the tubes. Finally it's simply a matter of pulling out the old springs. To be contined...
